Menus plaisirs - Les Troisgros

  • États-Unis Menus plaisirs - Les Troisgros
France / États-Unis, 2023, 240 min


Fondée en 1930, la maison Troisgros détient trois étoiles Michelin depuis 55 ans. Enfants de la quatrième génération, les fils de Marie-Pierre et Michel poursuivent la voie de l'entreprise familiale ; César dirige le restaurant étoilé, Le Bois sans Feuilles, et Léo est à la tête de l'un des deux autres restaurants Troisgros : la Colline du Colombier. Du marché quotidien aux caves d’affinage du fromage, en passant par le vignoble, l'élevage bovin et le potager contigu au restaurant, Menus-Plaisirs est un voyage intime et sensoriel dans les cuisines d’un des plus prestigieux restaurants du monde. (Météore Films)


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anglais Everything you wanted to know about this fancy French family-run three-Michelin-stars restaurant, but were afraid to ask. Meticulous, without the slightest exaggeration riveting (yes, watching the routine performed by proper professionals for four hours of footage in this rendition can indeed be, and is, riveting), all revealing insight as if you were standing right there working with them (to the point that after completing those four hours you are entitled to be paid for a half shift worked). Frederick Wiseman keeps a watchful eye on everything from food preparation, debates over the investment wine list, the work of the journeymen as well as the managers, the clientele, the suppliers, the interconnectedness of departments and activities... A heaven for process analysts, and anyone else who is interested in "how and why things get done". I went into this with the expectation that I would inevitably watch parts of it, but I ate it up like a raspberry. There are so many interesting areas to delve into in even greater detail that, as much as that enormous running time seems like an unbearable obstacle, it is the only blemish on the beauty in the finale. It could have done with an hour longer director's cut. ()

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